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Make-up

Introduction

Make-up and soap dates back to Egypt 4000 BC when it was used by males and females. Before the 20th century, cosmetics were mainly hand made from herbs, foodstuffs, minerals and even lead. Many of the substances are now unavailable and even banned. Lipstick emerged in the 20's. These were stains that stayed on the lips for days. Roll up lipsticks were not made until the 50's, although I have seen them being used in films such as Arsene Lupin returns 1938.

A Suggestion and some History

There are different types of looks from the Egyptians, Greeks, Romans to the 1920's through to 1990's and present day. The recent look is more of a techno look, like something out of i life or do you remember Lara Croft?.

Instead of trying to contort our faces to what is "in" at the moment we can choose a look to suit how our own faces are naturally. Why change what you have, the canvas, when you can change the look or art? There have been so many "looks" through out history that I am sure everyone can find a look to suit their own features. Or how about inventing your own look?

As a gudeline:
Small mouths, big eyes and straight eyebrows would suit a 20"s look.
Full and or wide lips and smaller eyes would suit the 60's look.
Full lips and a full mouth belong to the 70's look, think Elke Sommer.
Small eyes and thin lips would suit the 90's waif look and even the ancient Greek look especially if the eyes are slighly bigger.

Beauty is variety, the difference between us all. During certain eras, some features are favoured over others as is depicted by a few iconic woman of that era. Call it social engeneering if you like, we are well and truely brainwashed as a society. It may feel freeing to just lovingly embrace what we have and enhance our own features with looks that we choose from the past or with looks that we invent for ourselves.

During the 20"s lips were small and painted a deep red. Eyebrows were straight and lengthened, whilst big eyes were round and smudgy - usually also made up on the lower lids. This look was obviously influenced by the invention of red lip stain and the silent movie industry where faces had to portray drama.

During the 30"s the eybrows were high and arched, but the lips remained on the small side and painted dark red. Eye make up was slightly less heavy and sultry which may have been influenced by the introduction of the talking movies. Emotions could be expressed by words now.

The 40"s saw the progression of wider lips. A coincidence maybe with more and more talking movies being produced? The lips were still painted a red colour and the arched brows emphasized with brow pencil- perfect make up for black and white films.

The 50"s saw eyebrows decending slightly and beauty spots were in fashion. Lips ranged from small to somewhat full, but still made up in strong colours. The beauty industry started offering even more colour choices in make up - some films being made in technicolour now.

The revolutionary 60"s saw a total reversal of the previous four decades. Lips were full and luscious and coloured very lightly. Eyes could be smaller, because they were very heavily made up to look bigger anyway. False eyelashes and eyeliner were the order of the day. This is when the height of optimism and well being took off in the western world's then affluent countries. Along with the start of breaking free from traditions, this probably influenced all the bright colours and mini skirts.

During the 70"s the extremity of the previous decade calmed down. The look was more natural. In fact make up was quite diverse during the 70"s giving rise to different looks such as the hippy look, pop, sould, jazz-funk, punk, heavy metal and hippy looks. Everyone breaking free and feeling affluent enough to do their own thing? Also more of a non-caucasion influence was present. Generally speaking I would say that eyes were big and less made up than the 60"s and lips were also full and or wide with a variety of coloured lipsticks.

During the 80's when the afluent western countries started sliding into Kondratiev autumn and the haves and have nots became more pronounced, the media portraid glamour. With the rise of the UK's first female prime minister, ladies fashions remained glamourous but became strong (big shoulder pads). The look resembled a somewhat intimedating female power. Think tight mini skirted suits and pulled back or big hair. Make up remained strong.

The 90"s saw the grunge and waif movement with eyes small and elongated. The waif mouth suits wider and thinner lips. However, the unforgetable pumped up with collagen lips came into fashion during the late 80"s and through the 90"s.

With the rise of personal computers and cell phones came the recent techno look where women look like virtual cartoons. Women encouraged into contorting themselves into something they are not has reached the stratosphere leaving most of us real woman behind - thankfully.

Please don't take my word as gospel! This page is meant only as a rough guide and to give tips - try out your make up under different lighting and from various distances, ask friends' opinions and have fun practicing.....if it feels like obsession or hard work then take a step back.

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On Stage

It is surprising that nail colour can be seen at some distance away and even through theater glasses. It is therefore understandable that grooming is important. That underarm hair and chipped nail polish will not go unnoticed. It goes without saying that when dancing barefooted, toe nails are in full view so it is a good idea if they are manicured in the same colour as finger nails even though it is "Barbie".

Make up in combination with costuming can create a certain statement, adding emotional expression to the dance.

The relationship between the heaviness and brightness of the make up and the flamboyancy of a costume can create a thousand and one stories.

By wearing heavy or very artistic make up combined with a bright, flamboyant costume a strong sense of drama is created. A strong and definite character can be conveyed.

A darker or neutral costume can be counteracted with bright make up used as an accessory to bring colour and expression to the overall appearance.
It really is a question of striking a finely tuned balance and conveying the emotional ambience that is desired.

Blending is the crux of a well made up face. Not blending-in the make up properly is one of the most common mistakes that people make. An exception is when performing very far from the audience or on stage, not blending-in is forgiven because at least your make up can be seen.

Another mistake for everyday make up is to apply powdered shadow or blusher to a non-foundationed face which makes the colour appear blotchy on the skin.

The dance that tells a story is more than likely to be on stage. Obviously, when dancing on a stage the make up must be much heavier due to the stage lighting. Moreover, if the auditorium is bigger and the stage further away from the audience, the make up should be heavier still. When dancing on stage it is preferable to use stage make up. This traditionally comes in numbered stick form and is best suited for the hot and lighted conditions on a stage.

For the face, two or more shades are blended together. It is advised to choose one shade darker (if applicable) than your own skin and one the same colour. The darkest skins may get away with applying only one colour. Draw the alternate colours in stripes down the face and then blend in using downward strokes.

If your colouring is very red, even before dancing, a green tint mixed in with the foundation will counteract this. Purple counteracts a too sallow skin. It is a good idea to find out what colour the stage lighting will be first. If it is cool lighting then maybe counteracting a red face is not necessary.

Blend in foundation with downwards strokes, following the lay of the tiny hairs on the face. Afterwards, apply loose powder in the opposite direction of the growth of the hairs (upwards). Now finally smooth down the hairs and brush off excess powder by brushing downwards again. This process traps the foundation and powder under the hairs and allows the foundation to last longer, especially under hot and strong lighting.
Using these downward and upward strokes applies to non stage, everyday make up too.

Belly dancers have an additional problem with foundation - a lot of the body is also exposed and must therefore match in colour with the face. Face foundation can be brought down to the cleavage, but it is more comfortable to use a purposely made body foundation on arms and legs and even belly. If all this body make up sounds too horrific for you, then the neck and face foundation must be really well blended in and not too much darker than your own skin. A skin coloured net body corset covering the belly can be in a slightly darker shade than your own skin and fancy gloves or arm bands can sufficiently cover the arm skin. Some costumes even have skin coloured net sleeves.

After eye and lip colours are on, apply powder over them and then more eye and lip colour on top of the powder for staying power. Applies to everyday make up too. There is stage make up for eye and lip colours too.

Don't forget that depending on the lighting, the colours will look different on stage. Under red lights a dark pink or pinky red lipstick will have brown tones. Remember how different colours look under those old fashioned orange street lamps? Ever wondered why your make up looks a different colour in some photos? Using a red or pink with orange tones overcomes this.

If you have scarring that you feel uncomfortable about, then you can go to town painting/tattooing around the scars. With given medical approval you can even paint over them with make up or glue jewels around/on them. If you feel really unsure, face veils and plenty of sheer material can give confidence. Belly dancing gives a good opportunity to do this. Tribal dance is perfect for this.

After a long and heavy sweaty performance the face should be thoroughly cleansed as soon as possible. The pores will be open, allowing the make up in --- a perfect spot breeding situation. If sweaty never rub the make up with a towel, just dab it with a tissue or the make up will easily enter through the open pores.

When dancing at a party, restaurant or a fairly informal occasion the make up can be toned down, normal make up can be used. People are there to see your dance and not your make up after all. Do take caution though that there is some colour on your face to avoid a washed out look which clashes with a bright costume.

Just a reminder that true beauty comes from within and manifests itself by treating one's surroundings with kind thought. Respecting people is graceful.
As is respecting animals and not buying cosmetics tested on them.

Face Shapes

As with all the different body shapes, the face comes in a variety of shapes. The existing ideal is to apply the make up in such a way as to mould the face into the illusion of being oval. An oval shape is considered to be the perfect shape. I personally think that this ends up looking too contrived and that all shapes are beautiful and should be celebrated. For instance, a round face can be made up to accentuate that innocent, feminine look. A square face can be made up to accentuate a strong and powerful look.

The face and body shapes are just for curiosity and fun and it is possible that you do not fit exactly into one category. There are other factors to take into consideration too, such as eye shape.

This is why this page is not here to dictate hard and fast "rules". Try to see the bigger picture of shapes and shadows and experiment in combining the shapes and shadows to create the optical illusion you want. Whilst creating the photos, I discovered that "the rules" do not always work anyway.

To see how different hair, necklines and make up combine with different shapes, then please click on the face shapes on the left or the links below this paragraph.

To discover your face shape stand in front of a mirror and outline your face on the mirror using a lipstick. It is easier if you close one eye while doing this.

Face shapes generally belong to either the oval group or the round group

Click on your face shape to learn more and link to the virtual hairstyle page.

Face shapes belonging to the 'oval shaped group' are
* Oval
* Oblong
* Triangular with apex at chin

Face shapes belonging to the 'round shaped group' are
* Round
* Square
* Pear

Eyes

The theory of creating illusion with shape and shadow applies here very much. Conventionaly, the 'ideal' width between the eyes is more or less the same width as the eye. If the space is smaller then this is referred to as close set eyes. If the space is larger then this is referred to as wide set eyes. Eyes can also be protruding/big eyelid or deep set.

Eyebrows are very important in determining facial expression.

How to shape the brows

Before on this site, I described the ideal way to shape brows, but through experience the conclusion is to

Follow the curve of your own eyebrows. Find the natural highest point of the arch.
If your eyes are close together then the brows may start further in towards your eyes. This leaves a wider gap between the brows.
If your eyes are widely spaced then you may leave the hairs closer to the nose. This leaves a smaller gap between the brows.

Applying Eye Shadow

Contrary to belief that dark colours minimize and highlighter accentuates, a dark eye shadow will actually attract attention to an area, simply because the onlooker will be attracted to look there by its obvious presence.

Illusion of bigger eyes for deepset eyes;
By applying lots of shadow on the lid and up on the brow area, attention is drawn to the eyes making them seem bigger. Apply shadow almost up to touching the eyebrows. Then add a touch of shadow/highlighter on the eyebrows - if you dare.

White kohl pencil applied inside the lower eyelid opens up the eyes. (Be careful because the eyes can become infected by using khol pencil.). Apply dark eye liner on the outside of the lid with the white khol in it. On the upper lids apply dark eye liner thickest on the highest point of the eye arch.

Illusion of less protruding eyes;
Apply a beautiful mat foundation and powder on the whole eye area making it as mat as possible to draw attention away from the eye crease. In this case less make up is more. Well blended shadow and/or dark eye liner can be applied close to the lash line. Eyebrows that are very arched and rounded will accentuate the protrusion.

Eyeliner on the under eyelid will make the eyes look rounder thus accentuating the protrusion. Dark kohl pencil applied inside the lower eyelid closes up the eyes. (Be careful because the eyes can become infected by using khol pencil.)

Draw attention away from the eyes by a well made up mouth.

To create the illusion of width; Bring the focus to the outer side of the eyes and face. Shadow applied on the outer part of the lid or brow area, away from the nose area, will focus attention on the outer part of the eyes. Shadow can even be applied as far as the temple.

Eye liner applied at the outer corners from the miiddle of the iris outwards emphasizes the illusion. Think Egyptian make up but without the make up reaching the inner corners of the eyes, by the nose. Instead starting by the middle of the irises. Stick on jewels/apliquetes at the outer corner of the eyes will also add width

To create the illusion of closely set eyes or a narrower forehead;
Bring the focus to the inner corner of the eyes and face. Shadow applied on the inner part of the lid and brow area and even as far as onto the nose, will focus attention on the centre part of the face.

Eye liner applied at the inner corners of the eyes from the miiddle of the iris inwards emphasizes the illusion. For those who dare, the liner can even go downwards running along the edge of the nose giving a "cat like" effect. Think leopard and big cat.

There are “standard or universal” ways of applying eye make up to suit most eyes. This is used for instance to teach large groups how to apply make up.
One method is to firstly apply a mat shdow on all the eye area. Next apply a fairly dark colour all along the crease and under the outer corner of the eye. Blend up to the brow bone and down onto the outer corner of the lid .Apply highlighter to center of eye lid and high on brow bone. Use liner according to the shape of your eyes.