www.madamhelen.com

Costume

Which Figure Type
The Hourglass Figure
The Apple Figure
The Straight Figure
The Triangular Figure
The Pear Figure

Please scroll down and click on the thumbnail photos to play

After the summer of 2012, this site will no longer be dedicated to belly dance. Having the "veil" continually lifted from my awareness, I have noticed some masonic symbols in the dance, which I feel uncomfortable with. The "snake" arms, especially with two intertwining snake arms (DNA) is one such symbol.
A part of me will always enjoy the dance, but as with all artistic gifts, I just wish that people would dedicate their dance for the joy of Jesus rather than for a bunch of reptilians. I suppose it would be possible? Also, many people dance for their own egos. Many will think that I have gone mad, but think about how we have become slowly brainwashed, through the media, into accepting new boundaries. I am not saying that we should not evolve in love and compassion. Rather, I feel that our morals are being eroded e.g. even inside the belly dance, see how we are baring more flesh than the stars of the golden era in order to attract attention, instead of concentrating on the art of the movement. Sadly bellydance has evolved from a hobby and pleasure into a money grabbing business.

Which Figure Type?

Belly dancing allows women to show off all their curves in all their glory, but if you are lacking confidence, or just curious to know your body shape then this page is for you. Just as there is a variety of belly dance costuming there are various figure types. Of course it is not compulsory to stick with the usually worn traditional bra and belt costume and something different can add creativity. In fact very few figures are tailored for the traditional hip scarf or hip belt. Only the long legged, high waisted ones with broad shoulders really suit hip belts.

I want to emphasize that I do not think there is an ideal figure shape and any shape can be accentuated or balanced out depending on choice. The difficulty with writing this page (and the face shape page} is that on one hand I am against feeding the "perfect body" hysteria/social manipulation, but at the same time want to help women who do feel they need a confidence boost. Unfortunately, confidence is usually lacking because of all the stuff thrown at us. An aside: the author herself doesn't bother with worrying about her own illusion.

And yes, it is all about optical illusion. Every body is unique and may possibly not fit in strictly to any one body shape. Once you get to know your own silhouette, then play with different lines and forms to create your own illusion. Think in shape and form. Look up optical illusions on the web to see how it works. Most people know that vertical stripes lengthen while horizontal ones widen. Cold colours seem further away than hot colours.

Maybe an easier and more positive way to look at things is to just highlight your good points be it legs, bust, waist, arms or hips. Just make sure those bra fastenings are strong! Goes for belts too.

It is true that when dancing, simple is best to avoid the audience being distracted from the dance with too many accessories. Belly dance costumes in themselves can be over the top with their beading and embroidery. The obvious solution to creating balance is to accessorize the plainer costume with jewellery and/or heavy artistic make up or even body make up. Alternatively play down accessories when wearing richly beaded or extra bright costumes so that the eye is not too confused.

Vertical Illusion

There are many factors to take into consideration apart from body shape. One of them is the vertical illusion; high waisted or low waisted. Low waisted people tend to look shorter than their height and vice versa. To determine if you are long or short legged, place a pole (mop handle?) horizontally across the hip/leg joint/crease when you lift your leg up. Does the bottom half, the leg part look shorter or longer compared to the rest of the body? If the legs look shorter, then you have a long body proportion and if the legs seem longer, then you have a shorter body proportion. Shorter bodies usually have higher waistlines and vice versa. However, you can also check your waist height by tying a cord around the waistline and comparing the length from shoulders to waist with the length from waist to hips. If the shoulders to waist length is smaller you are high waisted and if the waist to hips length is smaller then you are long waisted. Also keep your height in mind i.e. extremely wide shoulders will make petite figures look boxy.

Body Shapes

The Egyptians floating down the page as you scroll demonstrate five different figure types. Their body shape is reflected on their headdress. To help you find your body shape stand in underwear in front of a full-length mirror at just less than arms length away. With a lipstick try to outline your silhouette at both sides from the shoulder to hips to get the general body shape. If you are not sure or are visually impaired, a trusted friend can give an objective view. The shapes defined on this page are obvious, but many people are just slightly predisposed to a body shape. It is possible that you do not fit into the defined boxes below. Below are suggestions on how to balance the figure types.

Hourglass Shape. This figure has a definite waist with curvy bust and hips. Think Marilyn Monroe or Joan Collins. They do tend to put on weight later on in life.
Rounded ¨Apple¨ Shape. This figure has a thick waist and tapers in at the thighs. The waist area is prominent and wider than the hips, although the shoulders are usually big. This shape is easily confused with the triangular shape. Apples tend to put on weight around the waist area first. It is a very difficult shape to determine on a thin person as the waistline can still be slightly defined.
Straight Shape. There is no definite waistline. The body goes almost straight down from bust to waist to thighs. Think Princess Diana or athletic or "boyish" types. The bust can be small/flat on these types.
Triangle with Apex Underneath or Angular. The figure is top heavy with wider shoulders than hips. Fat tends to be stored in the arms and bust rather than the hips. Think Barbie.
Triangle with Apex Above or 'Pear' Figure. The hips are much wider than the bust though there is a gentle waistline. This is the classic pear shape. Think Jennifer Lopez.

click to go to top of the choreography page at www.madamhelen.com

click to go to homepage of www.madamhelen.com

The Hour Glass Figure

This figure has waist that is at least 8 inches smaller than the hips. The bust and hips are the same measurment give or take two inches. This figure type was celebrated during the early 1900's, 1940's and 1950's, so think of the clothing lines of these periods when choosing your costume. Think Marilyn Monroe. Celebrate your waspy waist by wearing pretty waist chains. Bra fringes evenly distributed along the width of the bra should end well above the waistline. Too heavy fringing is not recommended for the fuller figure. That waspy waist will be exaggerated by accentuating the bust line and hip line.

Tailored, figure hugging costumes are ideal. This figure will look great in sophisticated slinky evening dresses. Tulip or mermaid skirts are ideal for showing off that defined waist and curvy hips. The fuller figure suits a slightly straighter or A-line skirt. A full skirt is also flattering for the hourglass. Harem pants would also accentuate your curves. Any fussy feature worn on the arms at bust level will accentuate the bust as will halter necks and sweetheart necklines.

The straight down baladi dress is not so suitable for this figure type as its curvy lines will be mostly hidden and the width of the bust and hips will be obvious, adding kilos to the figure.

I see this figure type performing a lot of coquettish moves in her dance. Body waves and alternating hip to bust circles will show off the hourglass as will plenty of hip and bust shimmies.

The Apple Figure

The apple figure could easily be confused with the triangular figure because this figure has larger shoulders than hips and oftern has thin legs. However, the apple puts on weight around the middle first and tends to have a thicker waistand and a protruding stomach.

The ¨empire dress¨ line suits this figure well. This dress was fashionable in the 60's, think baby doll nighties. The empire dress is perfect for apple figures. If you dare, the cleavage could be low ending where the skirt joins the cleavage. In other words, the centre and the focus of the costume is the bottom of the cleavage and not the waist. A plunge neckline suits this figure very much.

The baladi dress was made for you. Think 1920's and Charleston dresses with rows of fringing. If you want to wear a belt, a loose fitting baladi dress with a beautiful hip scarf will draw attention away from the waist area. It will emphasize the hips which are not your widest point. With the baladi dress pulled up and allowed to just hang over the hip belt in gathers, a prominent stomach could be hidden underneath. It could be made to look that it is the dress and not the stomach. If you are feeling very self-conscious, a beautifully finished off, v necked, kaftan can add an air of mystery and make you feel safer.

Mouse over the larger image on the left to reveal an empire line baladi dress. Notice how she dances with the hip belt, but does not wear it around the hips until it is neccessary for showing off shimmies or arm movements. She almost "plays" with her hip scarf taking it off and putting it back on. A hip belt on this empire line can make the torso look puffy.

Mouse over the original image to reveal an alternative costume that is in an hourglass shape creating an hourglass illusion. This was a fashionable line for swimsuits in the late 60's and early 70's. The v necklace adds to the illusion of length together with the headdress. Netting between a top and skirt can hold your stomach in slightly. The netting could even be of the same colour as the bra and top, lengthening the figure.

A slashed neckline or a scooped out/off the shoulder neckline will broaden the shoulder area. The eye will see the neckline as wider than the midriff giving the illusion of a triangular figure. A beautiful head dress will elongate and draw the eye away from the midriff and upwards. You probably have lovely legs so why not show them off with a slit and ankle chains.

Do avoid halter necks as they exaggerate roundness at the waist. The line widens from a narrow point on the neckline to a wide area ending and merging with the waist. A necklace worn too tightly round the neck will also emphasize the roundness at the midriff. The eye will compare the small neckline to the larger girth around the middle.Tight or tapered skirts will emphasize the middle/waist. Straight or slightly flared looks good on you.

This figure type can make the most of flowing scarves/veils draped over the shoulder, arms or draped diagonally across the body from the shoulder pulled through the belt to the opposite hip. A choreography which utilizes the scarves could even be developed (dance of the seven veils?).

The Straight Figure

This figure does not have a defined waistline. In order to add curves to this athletic shape, accentuate the bust and hip area drawing the eye horizontally across at these areas.

Draw attention to the bust and hip area to give the illusion of curves. Wear the the belt as close as possible to the waist so as not to lengthen the torso area. A skirt that starts to become fuller from as near to the waist as possible and is very flared at the hemline will make the waist seem narrower. Glam gloves with rushes at the top or puffy armbands worn high on the arms as well as lots of bra fringing/beading going all the way around the bust will all add width to the bust area. Beautiful rounded bra cups and belts in bright shiny materials will add curves. Mouse over the large image on the left to reveal a handkerchief, layered skirt and lots of frills trimming the bust line.

Accentuating this figure as in the image on the left; the baladi dress follows the straight line of the figure to give a straight, lean silhouette and the waist is lost under the folds of the dress. Note, tall ladies, this will add height, especially if the headdress is added. Patterns or stripes that go down the centre front as in the image will accentuate the straight line. A slashed or wide neckline instead of the plunge neckline will lessen the straight illusion. Wear the belt as high up on the hips as possible to avoid lengthening the torso area. A plain baladi dress will suit the fuller straight figure whilst the thinner straight figure suits fringing and lots of beading on the baladi dress and shiny materials. A baladi dress that is flared will give the illusion of a waistline, but make sure that the top has a wider neckline or any horizontal line.

Mouse over the original image to see a cross between a baladi and evening dress. Anything that flares out from the waistline, as in the image, will give the illusion of a waistline. the puffed arm bands make the top half look wider as does the slashed neckline. The slit distracts from the waist.

It is very likely that this figure type has attractive legs so make sure that there are enough slits in that sheer skirt or in that baladi dress. Avoid wearing head dresses especially if they are high.

I see this athletic type dancing very elegantly, using beau ti full arm movements and many arabesque steps. Veil work and finger cymbals will suit this figure. Big hip circles and shimmies will also suit, but I am not sure about those body waves or sword and candelabra work.

The Triangular Figure

This figure is larger from the waist up and gains weight firstly on the arms and bust. The hips are smaller and the legs are usually attractive. To balance this shape bigger and more detail is needed on the bottom half of the body whilst keeping the top half plain and simple.

This group shares the same figure type as the Barbie doll. By emphasizing the hips, your heavier top will be brought into balance. Wear brilliant and fancy hip belts. You are the one who can get away with wearing big bows or ruches at the side of your hips, although petite people and the fuller angular figure should keep it to scale. You could even bring up your full skirt and tuck it in at the top of the sides of your hip belt. You could also wear a multi- layered full skirt in different bright colours very comfortably. Ankle chains and brightly coloured toenails suit you well. The fuller figure however, could keep to a slightly straighter skirt. Harem pants look good on this figure type.

Mouse over the larger image which accentuates the triangular shape (this is also very elegant) to reveal a layered spanish style skirt that is tucked into the heavily fringed belt. The skirt has a slit to show off the good legs. Plus she wears a hip scarf with a big bow. The "upper" part of the body is decorated only with short gloves in order to co-ordinate the belt colour and make the body look less split into upper and lower half. Tall ladies could wear matching coloured shoes. The model in the photo is wearing an ankle chain.

The bust area could be minimized by wearing plain bra tops. Of course feel free to show off your big bust with fringing if you are bigger busted and proud of it! For those who have heavy arms and shoulders, sleeves (see through material would look good) could of course cover these up. A deep plunge bra worn with a longish necklace would make the bust area look smaller. Avoid halter necks and rounded necklines. It is preferable not to wear headdresses although shorter triangular figures could wear expressive make up or a small hair ornament in order to draw the eye upwards.

Gypsy style dance comes to mind with this figure as well as lots of hip shimmies and leg kicks. Of course you could always drive them wild with your bust shimmies.

The Pear Figure

This is the opposite shape to the triangular figure. The bottom half of the body is larger than the top half. The bust is obviously smaller than the hips.Think of a guitar shape. To balance the look, the top half of the body should be emphasized whilst keeping the bottom half simple.

Think Jennifer Lopez. A ¨T¨ shape will bring balance to this common, classic and feminine figure by emphasizing the top half of the body. A colour, style or cut that goes across the bust line will broaden, while a centre panel, colour or feature going down the middle of the lower half of the body will take the eye away from the edges of the hips. In total contrast to the top-heavy figure, keep the hip area simple. Wearing a hip belt with the fringing hanging only down the middle front and middle back will draw the eye away from the outer edges of the hip. A medium to tall person can wear longer fringing to give a more vertical line to the hip area. A belt which is a 'high leg' style, starting just below the waist at the sides and ending in a point in the middle is flattering. An A-line skirt, or an on the bias cut skirt, preferably in quiet/muted colours suits this figure type.

Go wild with bright colour or fringing on the bra. Layer those fringes! Gloves with flounces at the top, arm-bands or puffed sleeves, the bigger the better (petite ladies keep it to scale), worn high on the arms at the at the same level as the bust line will widen this area. Also fringing hanging from your bra straps or wide bra straps will draw the eye away from the hips. Beautiful rounded bra cups will add curves. An Egyptian yoke necklace is perfect for you, drawing the eye to the bust, shoulder and face area. A fancy headdress will also lift the focus up and away from the hip area and elongate the figure.

Try experimenting, by breaking "the rules", with a very frilly, full gypsy type skirt. If it is done properly, the eye could think that it is the skirt that is full and not what is underneath. Mouse over original image to reveal an ultra beaded bra top sewn into a bolero type top with detailed sleeves. A matching headdress lifts the eye upwards. The skirt is in a dark colour and the central hip belt beading/fringing matches the beading on the headdress and the bra. The skirt beads and bra fringing form a T shape. The top half is in a brighter and a lighter shade of the skirt. the skirt starts above the widest part of the hips but slightly below the waistline and is pulled up at the side so it cuts a diagonal across the hip shape. Make sure that the top half looks as full, if not fuller, than the skirt.

Mouse over the larger image (left) to reveal another costume. The fancy top is intricate with much chain and coin work. It has small sleeves with chain and coin detail. A very fancy matching headdress with veil lifts the eye upwards. The skirt is plain, darker and the hip belt is "high leg".

Performing more upper body work, like bust shimmies, will show off all that lovely bra fringing. Arm work will show off beautiful arm bands/gloves. Sword and candelabra dancing is perfect for you as are finger cymbals. Of course you could always show off your curves and drive them wild with your hip shimmies.

Avoid ankle chains and any fussy detail around the leg/ankle area. Baladi dresses are not really for you.